I have only been to Peru once, nearly 10 years ago, but remember how much La Mar reminded me of say Hoxton and Shoreditch in London in the early days. And it was at the beginning of my sourdough journey so I specifically sought out El Pan de la Chola (which I assume is the bakery you referred to in your post). And of course I loved it - the bread and pastries are phenomenal. But I also found it so depressing - in many ways it felt like this bakery could have just as easily been in Brooklyn, Shoreditch or Berlin.
Interesting to read about the transformation of La Mar through the lense of a local.
Thanks, Sophia! I told you it was so easy to doxx. hahaha. I absolutely love, love, love El Pan de la Chola and recommend it to everyone I know, but it is definitely a place designed to be Instagram-Millennial-Friendly like so many other cafés around the world.
The way you describe Lima in your opening reminds me so much of São Paulo (ditto with the traffic). I felt like a spoiled glutton as an American in SP with my partner, the neighborhood his dad lives in is stuffed to the brim with amazing botecos, bars, restaurants, etc and has also become a very idealized neighborhood to live in, with more and more upscale places opening almost daily. That being said, there are a lot of legacy places that are going strong, and eating there is always euphoric (and wonderfully overwhelming). It makes me realize how normal it is for most Americans like me to make do with so few eating out options, our base line of “normal” is so different. Thank you for sharing such amazing food experiences and writing about what seems like a very cool corner of the world!
Thanks so much, Kate! I’ve never been to SP but I’m dying to go to Brazil. There’s something about the chaos and density of Latin American cities that really does it for me. I’ve been writing way more about Peru and Lima lately and it feels good. There’s just so much I need to learn and dissect about my own country
Wish I could some day write about my home town the way you wrote about La Mar. Thank you Ines. This is the kind of personal and geographical history that I love reading and I didn’t know it until I read you today. ♥️
Thank you, Raju! That’s so kind and generous of you to say. I’m discovering that Lima (and Peru, by extension) might be one of my muses, which is funny given how many complicated feelings I have about the city. Can’t wait to read your work this weekend!
I loved reading your perspective of La Mar. I still dream of Peruvian food often, especially the La Mar cebicheria... getting to know the neighborhood on a more intimate level feels like a wonderful evolution.
Your description of La Mar reminded me of my old hood of South Jamaica Queens, NY. Specifically, the block I lived on was quiet but it was definitely surrounded by turbulence. If I remember correctly, Queens, along with Brooklyn, is also seeing rapid gentrification with up-scaled restaurants leading the charge. Thanks for your insight on La Mar.
Oh yeah, there are large swaths of Brooklyn that are 100% gentrified at this point and I'm sure certain areas of Queen are getting up there. Thanks for reading!
I have only been to Peru once, nearly 10 years ago, but remember how much La Mar reminded me of say Hoxton and Shoreditch in London in the early days. And it was at the beginning of my sourdough journey so I specifically sought out El Pan de la Chola (which I assume is the bakery you referred to in your post). And of course I loved it - the bread and pastries are phenomenal. But I also found it so depressing - in many ways it felt like this bakery could have just as easily been in Brooklyn, Shoreditch or Berlin.
Interesting to read about the transformation of La Mar through the lense of a local.
Thanks, Sophia! I told you it was so easy to doxx. hahaha. I absolutely love, love, love El Pan de la Chola and recommend it to everyone I know, but it is definitely a place designed to be Instagram-Millennial-Friendly like so many other cafés around the world.
The way you describe Lima in your opening reminds me so much of São Paulo (ditto with the traffic). I felt like a spoiled glutton as an American in SP with my partner, the neighborhood his dad lives in is stuffed to the brim with amazing botecos, bars, restaurants, etc and has also become a very idealized neighborhood to live in, with more and more upscale places opening almost daily. That being said, there are a lot of legacy places that are going strong, and eating there is always euphoric (and wonderfully overwhelming). It makes me realize how normal it is for most Americans like me to make do with so few eating out options, our base line of “normal” is so different. Thank you for sharing such amazing food experiences and writing about what seems like a very cool corner of the world!
Thanks so much, Kate! I’ve never been to SP but I’m dying to go to Brazil. There’s something about the chaos and density of Latin American cities that really does it for me. I’ve been writing way more about Peru and Lima lately and it feels good. There’s just so much I need to learn and dissect about my own country
Wish I could some day write about my home town the way you wrote about La Mar. Thank you Ines. This is the kind of personal and geographical history that I love reading and I didn’t know it until I read you today. ♥️
Thank you, Raju! That’s so kind and generous of you to say. I’m discovering that Lima (and Peru, by extension) might be one of my muses, which is funny given how many complicated feelings I have about the city. Can’t wait to read your work this weekend!
Maybe the complicated feelings is where the art comes from. Looking forward to read more of your writing. ♥️
I loved reading your perspective of La Mar. I still dream of Peruvian food often, especially the La Mar cebicheria... getting to know the neighborhood on a more intimate level feels like a wonderful evolution.
I dream of Peruvian food often, even when I'm in Peru LOL. Thanks so much for reading!
Your description of La Mar reminded me of my old hood of South Jamaica Queens, NY. Specifically, the block I lived on was quiet but it was definitely surrounded by turbulence. If I remember correctly, Queens, along with Brooklyn, is also seeing rapid gentrification with up-scaled restaurants leading the charge. Thanks for your insight on La Mar.
Oh yeah, there are large swaths of Brooklyn that are 100% gentrified at this point and I'm sure certain areas of Queen are getting up there. Thanks for reading!